Tools and Materials

A Miter Saw is critical for making accurate angled cuts. A compound miter saw with a 10-inch or larger blade is most suitable.

For tighter and more complex joints, particularly inside corners, a coping saw allows for precision and will enable you to follow the intricate profiles of the molding.

You will need a reliable and long measuring tape for assessing the lengths of the walls and planning out your cuts.

While you can use a hammer and finish nails, a nail gun significantly speeds up the process and offers more consistent results.

Select molding that complements the room’s aesthetic. The size should be proportionate to the room’s ceiling height; generally, larger rooms can accommodate wider molding.

Small Finish nails are ideal for affixing crown molding as they are less noticeable and can be easily concealed.

Any imperfections or nail holes will be filled with wood filler, which, once sanded, can be painted over.

To finish off the installation and cover any minor gaps between the molding and the wall or ceiling, caulk is indispensable.

After filling in the holes, you’ll need sandpaper to create a smooth, paintable surface.

 

Measure Twice, Cut Once

Clear the room as much as possible to allow access to all corners and walls. Having a clutter-free workspace is necessary for precise measurement taking. Ensure your ladder is stable and your measuring tape is in good working condition.

Accurately measuring the perimeter of the room will dictate how much molding you’ll need to purchase. Starting at one corner, measure the full length of each wall at the height where you will install the molding. Record these measurements carefully.

Do not overlook any irregularities in wall length, such as recesses or chimney breasts that may require additional smaller sections of molding. For these, separate measurements must be taken.

If the room has varying ceiling heights, this should be factored into your planning, as the moldings will be installed at different elevations.

When it comes to ordering your materials, it is advisable to add extra length to your total measurement to account for the crown molding that may be lost to cutting, especially considering the intricate cuts needed for corners. A good rule of thumb is to add 10-15% of material to ensure you are not left short.

Cutting corners will waste more material than straight cuts due to the angled nature of the cuts—a fact that should be considered when making your purchase.

 

Mitering Corners

With inside corners, a seamless fit is necessary, and this often requires more than just a simple miter cut. The technique of coping is widely used. This involves cutting one piece of molding at a 45-degree angle and then using a coping saw to shape the end of the second piece so it conforms precisely to the contoured profile of the first piece. This method compensates for any imperfection in the corner angles, resulting in a tight, professional look.

Outside corners are more forgiving but still demand precision. Each adjoining piece must be cut at the exact miter angle that matches the corner’s true measurement, ensuring that, when fitted together, they form a perfectly mitered outside corner. The molding should be measured and marked according to where the miter cut will allow the two pieces to come together flawlessly.

The actual angles of the walls will often differ slightly from the assumed 90 degrees, necessitating careful adjustments to your miter saw settings. Determining the corner angles precisely, usually with an angle finder tool, is a prerequisite to executing the correct miter cuts. Slight discrepancies from the standard 45-degree miter cut may be needed to accommodate the reality of the wall’s angles.

It’s wise to dry-fit the molding pieces in place to confirm that they align correctly. If gaps appear or the fit is not as snug as desired, it may require a return to the saw to minutely adjust the angles or reshape the coped edge.

 

Secure Installation

Finish nails are used because they are strong enough to maintain a firm grip but small enough to be discreet and easily masked. The nails should be long enough to penetrate through the molding and deeply enough into the wall studs or ceiling joists to anchor the molding securely.

To achieve a reliable installation, it is necessary to locate the wall studs and ceiling joists as these will provide the structural support for your molding. A stud finder is an invaluable tool for this purpose. Once identified, it’s best to mark the location of studs and joists along the perimeter of the room to guide you during the nailing process.

Armed with your nail gun or hammer, start from one end of the molding and work your way around the room. It’s best to start at the corners, ensuring that these main points are secured first. Place nails at every stud or joist along the molding’s length, spacing the nails about 16 inches apart.

The nails should be driven straight into the wall and ceiling to avoid damaging the molding. They should be countersunk slightly to create a small indent that can later be filled with wood filler for a smooth finish.

As you progress with the installation, you should regularly step back to inspect the alignment of the molding. It is easier to make necessary adjustments before the entire room is completed. Misalignments are more challenging to correct afterward and can compromise the uniformity of your installation.

After the nails are in, you’ll notice gaps and holes. No worries, this is normal. You’ll address these by caulking along the top and bottom edges of the molding and filling the nail holes with wood filler. Once dry, sanding these spots will leave you with a flawless finish.

The final step is to apply a coat of paint or stain. If you’re dealing with wood molding, staining can highlight the wood’s natural beauty. Opt for paint if you’re looking for a more uniform look that matches your trim or wall color.