Take a good look at what needs repair. The method you choose will depend on the size and type of damage. Tiny nail or screw holes are a different job from large holes or long cracks along a seam. Start by testing the area – press gently around the hole or crack to see if the surrounding drywall is solid. If the surface feels soft or crumbles, you’ll want to cleanly remove the damaged material and back the repair with solid backing.

For most patches, you’ll want joint compound (also called mud), a setting-type compound for deeper repairs, drywall tape (paper or fiberglass), and a patching tool kit. For larger holes, you may need a drywall patch, a backing piece, or a pre-cut drywall scrap to back the hole. Have these on hand: several putty knives (a small 1–2 inch blade for tiny holes and a wider 6–8 inch blade for larger patches), a sanding block or sanding screen (120–220 grit), a drywall saw or utility knife, a dust mask, eye protection, painter’s tape, a drop cloth, primer, and paint. A damp sponge helps wipe away dust between coats. Keep a spray bottle of water handy for softening dried mud if you need to rework edges.

For small holes, a simple spot repair works. For medium holes, you’ll apply tape and mud, and for large holes you’ll likely install a backing and a patch piece. If you’re repairing near a seam, you’ll want to reinforce the area with tape to prevent future cracking.

 

Prep work

Protecting the room is key to a clean finish. Move furniture away from the work area, lay down drop cloths, and cover nearby furniture and floors. If you’re patching near outlets or switches, remove the cover plates and switch off the circuit for safety. Taping off the edges around the repair with painter’s tape keeps undamaged paint clean and helps you keep lines sharp.

Scrape off loose material with a putty knife or scraper until the surface is clean and solid. If the area was painted with gloss or semi-gloss, roughen the surface lightly with sandpaper or a sanding block to give the mud something to grip. Wipe away dust with a damp cloth and let it dry. For holes or cracks that run along a joint, lightly open the joint to expose clean material so the patch adheres well. You want a dry base before applying mud.

Begin by cleaning the hole, then press in a thin layer of joint compound to create a smooth surface. For larger repairs, you’ll cut a neat opening so you can back the patch with a backing strip or piece of drywall. If you’re inserting a patch, have a piece about the same thickness as the wall ready to fit behind the hole. A tight, square opening ensures the patch sits level and cuts down on sanding as you finish. With every patch, the goal is a stable, flat surface that’s ready to receive primer and paint.

 

Patch holes

Nail holes and small dings are the simplest to fix. Dip a small putty knife into joint compound and press a tiny amount into the hole, then smooth it flush with the wall. Allow it to dry completely, then lightly sand the area and repeat once or twice if needed. The trick is to fill gradually and avoid creating a raised blob that will show through the paint.

Medium holes (roughly 1/2 inch to 3 inches) require a bit more reinforcement. You can use a self-adhesive mesh patch or paper tape for extra strength. Place the patch over the hole, then cover with a generous coat of joint compound, pressing it firmly so it embeds into the patch. For best results, you’ll apply two to three coats: the first coat to cover and embed the patch, a second coat to fill edges, and a final feathered coat to blend with the surrounding wall. Give each application ample time to dry through before sanding.

Large holes (3 inches up to about 6 inches) need backing. Cut a piece of drywall to fit the hole and place it behind the opening as backing. Screw a backing strip or a small wooden brace behind the wall to hold the patch in place. Position the patch over the opening and attach it to the backing with drywall screws. Apply joint compound around the edges, then use tape to bridge the seam. Build up the mud in stages with thin layers, letting each dry before applying the next. Sand smooth after the final coat and wipe away any dust.

For very rough patches, a setting-type compound can speed up drying and reduce shrinkage, especially if you’re patching in a high-traffic area. Apply setting compound as directed by the package. It’s stiffer than standard mud and sands down to a smoother finish faster. Always work in thin layers and allow time for curing to avoid future cracking.

 

Repair cracks and seams effectively

Hairline cracks along walls are usually cosmetic but can worsen if not treated properly. Using a putty knife, widen the crack very slightly to form a small trough that can hold tape. Press paper or fiberglass tape lightly into the crack and cover with a thin layer of joint compound. The first coat should extend beyond the crack a bit to blend with the surrounding area. Let it dry, then add a second coat that feathers out even more. The final light skim coat will make the transition to paint flawless.

Longer or more stubborn cracks along joints or ceilings may need scrim or paper tape. Apply a strip of tape over the crack, press it in place, then cover with mud in thin coats. Use a broader blade to smooth out the mud across the tape so the edge sits flush with the wall. Pay attention to the corners and seams; the goal is a seamless surface that doesn’t show the repair once painted. For deep cracks or movement-prone areas, setting-type mud is a smart option, as it stiffs quickly and resists shrinking.

Cracks near corners or along the ceiling line sometimes indicate movement in the structure. In those cases, reinforce with a backing strip or angle bead where appropriate, then apply mud as you would for any seam. The main prevention effort must be keeping future cracking from occurring by ensuring the patch has a stable base and that the mud is feathered beyond the repair edge. After all coats dry, a light sanding will reveal a smooth surface that’s ready for primer.

 

Sanding, priming, and painting for a pro finish

Sanding. Begin with a medium grit (120–150) to knock down the high spots. For a smoother surface, switch to a finer grit (180–220). Use a sanding block or pole to apply even pressure. Be careful not to sand through the mud into the drywall paper. If your patch is large, work slowly and check the area often. After sanding, a slightly damp sponge can remove fine dust and leave a surface ready for priming.

Priming the area that was repaired is essential, particularly if you’ve used various products or revealed bare drywall edges. A universal drywall primer will seal the patch and ensure even paint adhesion. In the case of a water or smoke stain patch, consider a stain-blocking primer to prevent bleed-through. For seamless color matching, you may opt for a tinted primer close to your final wall color.

Painting is where you finish the job. Start by “cutting in” around edges with an angled brush to create a clean boundary between wall and ceiling or trim. For bigger sections, switch to a roller. Using a light touch and a consistent rhythm, avoid creating roller marks. Roll in several directions to guarantee an even coat and feather the edges to blend with the surrounding wall. Depending on the color and sheen, you may need two coats. Allow the first coat to dry fully before applying the second. For a smooth, pro finish, don’t rush the dry time. Humming along with several light coats will beat one thick coat every time.

Eggshell or satin finishes are forgiving on walls and offer a slight sheen that helps hide minor imperfections. In high-traffic rooms, a semi-gloss on trim or moisture-prone areas can be wise, but reserve it for those surfaces to avoid showing every flaw in the wall. If you’re patching a large wall, you might want to roll a hold primer first and then apply two coats of your chosen paint for a cohesive look.